Wednesday, 30 March 2011

MARCH 30, 2011 Wednesday CAPRI, Italy Day 10

We asked for a room with a view and the girl said they had nothing but she would see what she could do.  Well when we arrived back at the hotel this afternoon, she had a room with a huge balcony looking right out over the water.  So nice, but we can only have for one night so she is looking into sending us to a sister hotel tomorrow.  Can't really unpack but this is preferable to no place to read and relax. 

We walked up to Capri Centro, the town centre.  It is just as fast to walk as the steps cut through the city rather than the long windy road by car.  The pathway to walk is less than 5 feet wide and yet  that is the route the garbage and mail trucks take so they use these little mini 3 wheel trucks and most folks have a scooter rather than cars. 
trucks that drive down narrow alleys for maintenance, trash collection, mail delivery etc




pathway through residential area to piazza in centre of town

From town centre, we walked down the other side of the island to the Piccolo Marina versus the Grand Marina on our side of the island. 

winding walkway down to the beach

We took the city bus from the beach back up to city centre and ate at a little pizza place recommended by our hotel.  Food was great and cost much less than the touristy place we ate yesterday. 

our cozy seat with ocean view at Buca di Bacco


note the blackened crust of the pizza, yummy

We walked back to our hotel, so lots of walking and a lot more steps than Rick had ever agreed to but I think he enjoyed it as much as I.  We had some spectacular views.  I still have no voice so another quiet day.  After a little reading on the balcony, I walked down to the east beach, the Grande Marina to get some water and was back in our room in less than 20 minutes. These photos were all taken on our walk down to the west side beach.  From the top you cahn see ocean on both sides of the island.  It is very narrow.


Beachcombing

Tuesday, 29 March 2011

MARCH 29, 2011 Tuesday, CAPRI

We have not had access to internet for several days so I will try to catch up on my diary.  We left Napoli on teh 11:35 ferry.  I was surprised to see this beautiful castle at the ferry terminal.

We are staying in a 4 Star hotel with free WiFi but it seems to work only on this little laptop and not on either of our iphones or Rick's ipad.  We arrived on the isle of Capri approximately 1:00 pm after an hour and a half fast ferry ride on a cool catamaran jet boat.  It is strictly a passenger ferry and seating is like the airline, 3 seats across at both sides and a row of seats down the middle as well, high backs but no leg room and no recline. It was a rough ride as we were really zooming along but it was fun.  We called the hotel when we arrived at the ferry dock and they sent a car down to pick us up.  We are staying at Parco Excelsior, a place that was built as a private residence in the 19th century and operated as a hotel since 1906. 


We checked in and got a ride up to the Capri town center.  It is a small town built on an island mountain.  All the roads were built long before cars and are very narrow, and they wind back and forth due to the steep nature of the island.  Much of Capri is for walking only but we may rent a scooter to get around tomorrow and see how far we can get.  We had lunch in town, paid 12eur for spaghetti that was not even close to the dinners we had at l'archetta in Rome.

Our hotel is on a steep hill so we bought junk food in case we don't feel like going out later.  I would love to walk around all side streets and explore so maybe tomorrow.  There is a castle at the top of the mountain and apparently there are some ancient Roman ruins at one end of a walking tour.

Our room is cute, a couple of twin beds on the main floor in a tiny space with no window so we were a bit creeped out when we saw it but she pointed us to the marble staircase that leads up to our real room with a wonderful bathroom.  Unfortunately, only the bathroom and the stairway have windows so we have no view at all so may ask to move tomorrow.

I decided to go for a walk and found it is faster to walk to the beach than to drive.  85 steps down but cute little shops at the marina.  I walked around some neighborhoods on the way back and found some beautiful homes, a school and a soccer field but the ocean view is the hilight and can be seen from everywhere.

MARCH 28, 2011 Monday POMPEII

We are planning to stay in Napoli again tonight so left all our luggage in the hotel and caught the approx one hour train to Pompeii.  Cost was only 2.40euro each for a one way ticket but that seems cheap to me.  We got the audio guides for 5eur each even though we had a book from Tam with all the same info but it is faster for me to listen than to read.  Tickets were 11 euro each for the gate and we were off.  The city of Pompeii is huge and we did not begin to cover it although I had thought I would get to most of it.  There are so many streets and many are dead ends so we never did find the huge amphitheatre but we did come across two theares.  One was the 'small theatre' for poetry reading, mime shows etc and sat 1300 people. 
Small Theatre Seating


Stage of Small Theatre


The stage is beautiful multi-coloured marble and all the seats are intact but the external marble of the seats has long been removed - most likely in some church somewhere.  The large theartre seats 5000 people and was used for plays, political rallies etc. 

Seating in the Large Theatre
There is a huge courtyard accessible from both theatres where folks would gather at intermission for drinks and socializing.  These people were very civilized.

This area was covered and accessed from both theaters

Pompeii began in the 7th centure BC but most of the best homes we saw were built in the 2nd century BC.  I was surprised to find there were at least 89 'Thermaporiums', hot food sellers in town. 

Rick serving up some Hot corn chowder from his Thermoporium
These were not cafes, but places where you purchased hot food and took it home to eat.  Fast food was obviously not invented by Christians.  Many homes had a store in front and a private, family entrance to the house, next to the store.


This home had a bakery on the main floor.  They ground the grain on these stones with the help of a mule.  The kitchen was next to the mill room.  The stable was on the opposite of the mill room.
 Most homes were large, at least the size of my house and larger, with 3 bedrooms, kitchen, latrine, private garden and the main room always had a water fountain and sometimes pillars.

A typical living room or foyer.  Always a water feature or fountain.
 All walls appear to be painted frescoe style.  Some had paintings of gods, or hunting scenes and some had architectural paintings of pillars and marble-like panels.



 The entire city is made of brick and concrete and would have had marble panels on the outside.

A typical street in Pompeii.  Raised sidewalks on both sides of the street.  Their water system was not as sophisticated as Ephesus and they brought water in through lead pipes but the dirty water sometimes returned to the sea through the streets after heavy rains.

A typical mosaic floor.  Most floors appear to be in black and white 1/4" tiles.


Excavation of Pompeii began in the late 1500's and has been going on ever since.  There is still much to uncover but it won't be completed in this lifetime.

I could go on and on but best just to refer to the book or the internet for pictures and details.

When we got back to Napoli, we again headed for Da Michelle and lo and behold it was open and there was no lineup.  We just sat down and chose between the only two kinds of pizza on the menu.  Maguerita or Marinara.  You could have the normal size or another size.  Ours was pretty big but as it was the cheapest, the other size must of been bigger.  Pizza cost 4eur each and drinks were 1.50 eur.  Rick had a can of coke and I had a litre of sparkling mineral water - same price.  The pizza was pretty darn good but the crust was a little thicker than L'Archetto which I actually prefer.   The pizza is definitely not worth having to walk through Naples for, although I think most of the garbage has been picked up today so maybe they just put it out the day before.  Traffic is a nightmare as well.



MARCH 27, 2011 Sunday NAPOLI, ITALY

Arrived in Naples by train in the early afternoon.  Tamara & Bob had to leave the hotel at 7am and we switched to daylight savings time last night so having already lost an hour sleep, we decided to catch our own cab to the Termini at our leisure.  We had our last breakfast glancing at the Pantheon and took the 29eur first class train to Napoli..  Tamara had warned us about the cheaper, slower and very cramped 11euro train so we figured this was worth it.  As soon as we checked in to our hotel, located conveniently right across the street from Napoli Centrale train station, we headed up to find Da Michelle.  Supposedly the best pizza in Italy according to the book and attested to by Tam.  Well Napoli was shocking.  Either it is garbage day tomorrow or the trash collectors are on strike.  Every street is littered and there are huge piles of trash we had to maneuver around.  The stores and restaurants are all closed because it is Sunday.  There are many, many street sellers but most of the stuff they are selling looks like they dug it out of the trash.  Nothing new, nothing you would even want to touch.  There are small glimpses of the ancient Roman architecture but it is evident that the Napolese people do not respect property.  Everything was probably trashed over 1000 years ago.  All the current buildings are in need of repair and maintenance.  There is laundry hanging from every balcony. 

We eventually found Da Michelle and it was, of course closed.  We had a map with some hilights of Napoli on it but the streets are so disgusting that even when we came across something of interest, we couldn't wait to get out of the area.  We finally landed on a busier street and found a little cafe and had a pizza.  Rick wanted a panini off the menu but because it is sunday, they only serve pizza.  It was actually pretty good and cost 3.50 euro each.


On our way back to the Starhotel, we found a little market so stocked up on water for the next couple of nights.  We both fell asleep around 6:00pm.  I have completely lost my voice, super nice for Rick, must have been too much sister chat.

Saturday, 26 March 2011

Saturday March 26, 2011 our last day in Rome

We had coffee and then cappachinos in our hotel then all went for a walk and did a bit of shopping. Tamara, Rick and I went to l'Archettos for one last spaghetti then Tamara and I went to the Emmanuel Vittoria building and took stairs and a glass elevator to the top for a spectacular view of the city.


This bronze equestrian statue is so huge, the makers had a celebration inside the horse. 


The view of the Pantheon from the top of the Emmanual Vittorio building:

The Pantheon is the large dome.  Inside it is much more beautiful

We had a wonderful dinner a Navona Piazza and found out it is World Heritage Day and the lights go out for 60 minutes at 8:00 pm so they gave us candles at our table.  We went back to Della Rotunda to have farewell wine with the Pantheon and my sister.  It was a wonderful week and I am sad to see her go.  We have rarely if ever had so much time together.


Friday, 25 March 2011

March 25, 2011 Friday, Day 5 of Roman Holiday

Today we went to a nearby market, the Fioro Campi and had our morning coffee.  We each chose a different drink, Cappuchino, Caffe Latte, Americano, & American coffee.

After breakfast, we split up and Rick & I went to the Colloseum.

 
No matter how many times I see the Colloseum, it is still awe inspiring.  It stands 50 meters tall, and is 188 meters in length and 156 meters in width.  The true name is the Flavian Amphitheatre named after the Roman emperor who had it built in the year 74AD.  Outside a gigantic statue was built in the memory of Nero -so large it was called a collosus.  Folks would arrange to meet at the Collosus and thus the name Colloseum became synonymus with sports buildings  The floor of the Flaviaun Amphitheatre was covered with sand.  The Latin work for sand is 'arena'.  There were seats for over 50,000 people and standing room for another 20,000.  Due to the efficiencies in the buildings, the number of entrances, many still numbered and the many stair ways, it is said they could fill or empty they building of all 70,000+ in 10 minutes or less.

This sculpture of Jesus by Michelangelo and supposedly completed by Bernini, stands in a little church just behind the Pantheon.  No one seems to know it is there.  We happened to stumble across it a few weeks ago when I was here with Larraine and Clancey.  I now know it is the only original Michelangelo that you can touch.  He could make marble feel like real skin, with each muscle


In the evening we all returned to L'Archetta, the best pizza and spaghetti in town,  Over 100 different kids of Spaghetti and every one is absolutely delicious.

Thursday, 24 March 2011

March 24, 2011 Thursday in Rome Day 4

Today we had another great coffee and disappointing breakfast in the hotel and then walked over to the Vatican to meet with our tour guide,Luke, the same guide we had for the Colloseum 3 weeks ago. We spent about 3 hours in the various Vatican museums including:
The Tapestry room, full of giant tapestries designed by the painter Raffael and woven in Belgium in the 16th century


The map room, full of ancient maps and globes of various parts of the world at different periods of time.

Many galleries of the most valuable paintings by the most famous painters eg Caravaggio to the Sistine Chapel, where we were not allowed to take photos although we saw many people doing so, the Gardens,

and the many galleries of sculptures from ancient Greece and Egypt



to the Rennaissance stars such as Michelangelo and Bernini.

Pieta by Michelangelo

 Much of this art was owned by well-known dudes like Nero circa 60AD and Constantine circa 350AD. Much of this art was pillaged by the Vatican from the Colloseum and the Pantheon etc.

After the Vatican tour we all went around to St Peter's Square. Tamara and I took a guided tour of the Basilica while Rick & Bob had a quick look around and headed to the pub. In the Basilica we saw the altar designed by Bernini.  Bernini used 62,000 tons of Bronze to build this altar, much of it from melting down all the bronze from the Pantheon

 In the Basilica we also saw the Dome designed by Michelangelo.  This Dome is taller than the Statue of Liberty. 
Then Tamara and I climbed the 551 steps to the top of the Dome.
The bronze ball on the top of the dome is the highest point in Rome. By law, nothing can be built taller.

Here are the statues on the from of St. Peter's Basilica as taken from the ground.


And here they are at their level, only 220 steps of the total 551 to the top, just to give an idea how big that dome is.
And here they are as taken from the top of the Dome