SIEM REAP November 30, 2012

Arrived in beautiful Siem Reap by boat this afternoon. All checked in to our fantastic hotel room, Sara is skyping her new beau upstairs and I am sitting around the beautiful pool trying to blog.
This may be our best day yet!! We were picked up by a very nice van at 6:45 am

The van dropped us at the boat dock for our river boat trip to Siem Reap. We were warned the top deck could get very hot as there is no cover. No seats either. So we sat inside as far away from the diesel engine as possible. There are no windows so good air flow but the trip was so spectacular I ended up sitting on the roof for the last 3 or 4 hours. We knew the trip would be 6-9 hours depending river height. Because they recently had so much flooding, the trip was relatively fast. About 7 hours. Probably depends on how many pick-ups and drop-offs as well.

Sara standing in front of our boat.  Imagine a seven hour trip on this

The roof of the boat where I sat for several hours. 

The trip started down a typical tropical river scene with palm trees and houses lining both sides of the river. As we got further out from the city, the river was very much like the Everglades. We had to duck frequently as branches were snapping into the boat and whacking our arms. The river was so lush and dense, we could only see the narrow water route in front of us. Sometimes another boat, coming toward us, would have to squish into reeds to let us by.

Houses along the river between Battambang and Siem Reap

Fisherman

Small viallage on the river.  Note the cage with chickens in the middle

Eventually we came to an open area and gradually all the plant life disappeared and it seemed as though we were on the ocean. The only land visible was what looked like a mountain far off in the distance and turned out to be Ankor, the main reason for our trip here

Phnom Kulen mountain that Tamara and I explored later in the week

We had only one stop along the way where we could get off the boat. Of course we all had to take a bathroom break. There were 3 tiny stalls. You open a thin metal door and step off the dock onto a plank with a large square hole in it. So everyone goes right into the river. See yesterday's blog re:washing rice noodles in the river water.

Private bathroom stall off the dock at our only stop from Battambang to Siem Reap.  Not sure if anyone uses the bucket to 'flush' or just wash themselves.  There are other stall next to this one so I would not be pulling any water for any reason out of this hole.

One thing I notice is no one is trying to sell us anything since we left Phnom Penh. Tourism has not overtaken the area yet. So nice!
Our river trip took us through many villages, some on land and some were on the water, either floating or on stilts in the water. All had boats at each house. We saw many dogs, cows and kids. Most of the cows we see are working cows so very skinny, almost skeletal. The water buffalo must be for eating because they are a bit meatier. Fun to see them wallowing in water ditches along side the road.

We made several stops in villages, more of a slow idle than a stop. Wood boats would paddle out to meet us to either pick someone up off the boat, pick up supplies or drop someone off. We saw folks get on at one village and get off at another. The whole scene is not unlike some of the native villages on the west coast of BC where everyone needs a boat to get around. We saw lots of folks fishing, usually with nets and almost always with old plastic water and coke bottles as floats for the net. Good recycling!

Large rain pots to gather fresh rain water

Cows at small village along the river

Family at work outside their home

Woman delivering something.  Many people cover their faces because of the dusty roads and they cover their arms so they don't get sun

A passenger riding on the front of our boat.  Note the narrow passage we had to navigate down the river.  At several points, we were getting whacked by branches and bushes so we all had to duck and lean away from the outside of the boat.

One of many passenger transfers.  This family came to pick up dad off our boat.  Pick ups and drop offs were done at every village by small boats rowing out to our boat as we passed through town

mothers with kids running errands in town

Kids wathcing us pass by

kids waving as we pass by their home

local floating market.  This lady takes her boat to each home in this village and sells food

one of many boats with small kids alone

Houseboat. Note the antenna.  This can't possibly be a TV can it?

The river widens

We saw a few egrets, pelicans and cormorants but for a floating jungle on the river, not many birds. I would have expected to see many. No bugs either so that is wonderful

The river eventually looked like an ocean.  I think these are storks or pelicans.  Black and white huge seabirds

small boat had to squeeze into the brush to let our boat pass by

dog greeting party.  They must not get many walks, living on the water like this

A floating school

When we arrived in Siem Reap, we were met by a tuk tuk driver who took us to out hotel. Probably a 30 minute trip. The road was horrendous. Dusty red dirt with huge potholes. Big buses and cars were trying to navigate to the boat dock- you would never see a bus in a road like that in Canada. We were really tossed around and quite dusty when we arrived but the sight of the best hotel we have seen this trip made it all worthwhile. It was originally $31 but we upgraded to the executive suite for $42. Sara was doing dances in our sitting room there is so much room. She has never stayed in a real 4 or 5 star hotel. The Lebiz in PP was supposed to be. The Star hotel in Battambang was advertised as 3 star and looked nice but they reuse the top sheets on beds. We asked for a clean sheet but never got it. On both beds the top sheets are all wrinkled like they were tucked between someone's legs. Gross. We are both quite happy. Just had a delicious dinner and heading into the spa for a two hour massage. This is the life.

BATTAMBANG, CAMBODIA Nov 29, 2011

Today after breakfast on the roof of this Star Hotel, I walked down to the city market, went for a Thai/shiatsu massage, then with sister Sara hired a tuk to take us to see how rice paper is made, had another massage after dinner and we are now packing up for our early morning boat to Siem Reap.  Throughout the day, I drank several fresh squeezed lime juice with crushed ice and a few pineapple shakes - a fresh pineapple blended with ice.  One even had some ice cream in it.  The juice is generally $.50 and the shakes were $.75-$1.25.

The market was similar to other markets with more emphasis on weird foods and lower quality clothes.  No real or fake name brands at all.  The difference at this market is no one is aggressively trying to sell their goods.  I almost had to look for someone to sell me something.  The shop keepers were not in their booths, they were off visiting.  They did not bargain much either.

The boy is a young monk in training.  He has to carry the basket to carry the food they are given.  Monks go from business to business and just stand outside waiting for someone to come out and give them a donation

A knife sharpening business man at the market

Scaffolding completely made of bamboo.  It looked very haphazzard but is probably stronger than it appears. 

The massage was back with the blind people for $6 with ends up about $10 each time with 70% tip.  Tipping is not common but is greatly accepted by all.

Me & Sara in a tuk tuk

Local man wearing traditional sari

The tour greatly exceeded our expectations.  We saw two products in the making, rice paper (the kind we eat) and rice noodles.  In the rural area we went to, at least 30% of the people are involved in the rice business. To make rice paper, they first ferment the rice by soaking in water for 24 hours. The the rice is ground into a paste with a bit of water and sometimes a bit of sugar.  They make a big pot of the white paste.  They burn rice husks to keep a low fire burning under a couple of bamboo poles.  They form very thin circles of the paste and let them cook slightly on the heated bamboo.  Then all the circles of rice paper are set on large iron grates.  The grates are old and rusty and the rice acquires the grid lines of the grates.  The rice paper dries in the sun for an hour or more. When the paper is very dry, it is peeled off the grates.  The crisp hard circles are then laid out on the grass to absorb just enough moisture to make the paper maleable.  That process again takes only an hour or so.  A woman will make about 2000 per day in her home.  Well in her front yard really.  No one does anything inside.

Rice paste made of ground fermented rice

Rice husks pouring down into the fire under the crossed bamboo poles

Rice paper drying in the sun for one hour until very dry

Removing the rice paper so the next batch can be applied

Basket of dried rice paper

The next family business we watched was the rice noodles.  Again, they start with the paste and they also use rice husks as fuel for the fire.  They have a huge kettle of water just before boiling,  They pour the rice paste in a large can with holes in the bottom like a seive.  Another can with a solid bottom is inserted inside the first can to push the paste through into the simmering water.  In about a minute, the cooked noodles are scooped out with a wicker basket and washed thoroughly down by the river.  There are 3 large buckets of water, each one used in order to rinse the noodles so they are tasty and not sticky. 

barely simmering pot of water to cook the rice noodles in

Rice paste squeezed into the simmering water through tiny holes in a can to create rice noodles

fire fueled by rice husks just off to the side of the water pot so the water simmers and does not get too hot

Gathering the cooked rice noodles up in a wicker basket

Washing the rice noodles in the first of three river water washes

Old woman at her home she shares with her cows

Banana drying in the sun.  To prevent a waste of bananas they cannot eat fresh, bananas are sliced lengthwise in very thin strips and overlapped to create these long fruit strips.  As they dry in the sun, they glue together into a long 4" x 16' strips.

Fuel for sale.  The different colours indicate Premium-green, regular-yellow, gas from Thailand is red.

The drive along the river to see the rice making reminded me of the hike through the Borneo jungle.  The houses are similar but single homes rather than long houses.  Lots of dogs, lots of chickens and lots of kids everywhere.  The people were extremely friendly and everyone waved and shouted hello as we passed.  Apparently they don't get many tourists.  We felt like celebrities.  This day is one of the highlights of my life.

Battambang, Cambodia Nov 28, 2011

We were assured we would have a luxury bus for our six hour trip from Phnom Penh to Battambang. I did have air conditioning, barely. Seats were vinyl so very sweaty, curtains were filthy and I had to keep tucking them away because I was freaked out when they touched me. Very gross. The bus stopped twice for bathroom breaks. No potty on the bus. Stalls at the stops are tiny, those holes you squat over, no tissue and you flush with a scoop of water you take from a communal bucket. Most of the men headed off into the fields. I wish.

We had continuous Bollywood music videos. Six hours of fairly loud music. The road was very dusty, some areas were gravel with pot holes but over all not a bad trip. Along the way we saw many rice paddys, water buffalo, very skinny white cows and almost every house along the road has large bamboo mats spread out with rice drying on them. Some mats are right on the shoulder of the road. Most homes are on stilts and most would be more of a shanty than a house.

Rice drying on mats in the sun before the hulls are removed

More rice drying on mats right by the dusty road

Rice Paddy

Very cute little straw hut

Fuel for sale in coke bottles on the side of the road

We were met at the bus station by a tuk tuk driver who insisted we should walk to our hotel. He led us while we dragged our heavy bags. Along the way he convinced us to go to the bamboo train. So after checking in to the Star Hotel, we climbed aboard the tuk and went for a very rough, bumpy, dusty ride about 15km to the bamboo train. We had actually expected a train. What we got was quite a surprise. There are many flat beds about 8' x 8' with a small motor. We sat on a bamboo rug and our driver started the motor like a lawnmower and off we went. Barreling down the railroad tracks at about 30km/hr

Sara and me in our tuk

Sara & I on our bamboo train.  Each group gets their own car, rough bamboo with a grass mat to sit on

The track was manaully built so is not very straight and you can really feel the zigs and zags when the train is going fast

Our train driver. Good view of the platform we sat on

Only one cart on track at a time so when we met another cart, the drivers had to take the cart apart and get it off the track. Then load it back on the track snd reassemble. Locals walk along the track so they have to jump out of way as we go screeching past. Pretty fun but hardly a train! The destination was a small village about 30 minutes out. We have a five minute walk about where we met lots of kids and saw some brick kilns for making bricks. Then a speedy return trip with a stop on a bridge to watch the sunset

Local resident had to move off the track so we could pass.  There is no other path to walk on and he is carrying a heavy load

Farmer ploughing his field.  He stands on the board while cows pull him

Removing train car so we can pass. 

Train car

Brick beehive for making bricks

Sunset - taken from the bridge along the track

Tuk driver, named Dara, dropped us at a nice restaurant where we ate for under $4 for both of us and we capped the day off with a $6 full body Thai massage from Massage by the Blind.

Dishes at rest stop on the bus trip.  Just sitting outside where everyone walks past. 

Sink at the restaurant we had dinner at.  Only one sink outside the toilets and everyone uses them -hopefully.  I did not use those towels